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First Reef : ウィキペディア英語版
First Reef

A surf break at Point Leo, on the Mornington Peninsula, one of the closest surf beaches to Melbourne in Victoria, Australia known as First Reef or more colloquially just "The Reef". Up until the 70's there was little or no resident surfing population in Point Leo, so the Reef was mainly surfed by the few transient waveriders who were exploring the many breaks to be found in Westernport Bay.
One of only a few left-handers inside the bay, although it can be a fairly long wave on a big swell, it is more often just a short ride- a take-off peak, a bowl section and a shorebreak. It also "boasts" a very average right-hander that occasionally produces similar results but without the bowl, being more of a wall-type wave with several sections. One of three reefs between Suicide and Honeysuckle Points, First Reef is a sand and seaweed covered submerged igneous reef of fairly regular convex relief, extending perhaps a hundred metres out from the shorebreak where the waves eventually dissipate. Its versatile nature thus caters for beginners and average to experienced surfers alike, but probably is best known as a haven for goofy footers.
== Early Surfers ==

The earliest surfers (using the term loosely to include all forms of the art) were probably body surfers, from when the Armed forces used the area for training during the Second World War,〔(【引用サイトリンク】url=https://www.mornpen.vic.gov.au/files/.../Strategic_HastHeritageStudyVol2.pdf )〕 and afterwards by lifesavers who eventually formed the Point Leo Surf Lifesaving Club in 1955. Early use of wooden paddleboards was superseded in the 60's by fibreglass surfboards which became popular as the newly introduced sport of surfing grew. Frequent visitors to the area included daytrippers from Melbourne and other towns close by, part-time residents with holiday houses, and regular campers over the summer season, some of whom surfed the reefs and shorebreaks up and down the beach.

In the early 70's, the resident surfing population was born with the arrival of two families, almost tripling the number of residents to nearly 20 and with it, producing a handful of the first full-time resident local surfers. Scarcely any other surfers could be found during the week whilst the numbers would swell on weekends if the weather made conditions favourable for good surfing. As Point Leo became more and more popular, fanatic surfers increased in numbers. By the end of the decade, the situation had changed so much with the inundation of wave-hungry surfers from the explosion of this latest "hip fad", that those idyllic conditions are now seldom found, as if they have almost disappeared forever.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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